May 1999 feature by Heidi Pollock |
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Pocket Taxonomy
Between the flesh and the external world lies a twilight zone where the
pocket reigns supreme. Pockets fill the gap between the inside of our
protective garments and the outside of our self-conscious appearances.
Pockets embody the emptiness of the great divide between ourselves and our
surroundings. Nothing quite fits emptiness nearly as well as absence. All
of which is why lately we find ourselves surrounded by so many pockets,
awash in their vacancy, and laboring to accommodate this proliferation of
nothing. The return of the pocket is inseparable from the current cargo pant
renaissance. The selfsame army pants of the punk rock 80s are suddenly a
bold and fresh new fashion statement with everyone from LL Bean to Chanel
offering up some inscrutable twist on the classic military uniform. The
one thing these diverse designer ensembles have in common is a shared
abuse of the externally visible so-called cargo pocket. As they cut
across all social strata to oversaturate our culture, these countless
pockets carry along a strange silent message. It is tempting to dismiss the encroaching pockets as necessarily
representative of our avaricious times. In the most primitive
implementation a pocket is meant to hold stuff and if it's one thing we
have these days it's a lot of stuff. To the delight of thieves
everywhere, you can't hardly stick your hand into a pocket these days
without encountering some sort of pager, cellphone or PDA. All manner of
questionably useful electronic gadgetry that didn't even exist a decade
ago is deemed absolutely necessary for a fulfilled modern life. Amidst all this techno-fetishism there are few devices more
future-forward than the pocket. Goodness knows that you've got to have
some place to secure that cell phone when it comes time to tap out
someone's vital digits on that tiny PDA touchpad. Like cars and kids and
mistresses, one just doesn't seem to satisfy. Every gadget needs its own
special pocket. Sleek cell phones need to be kept safely away from the
dangerous scratchy keys. And that address book won't work with the wallet
because the resulting unsightly bulge would be simply unacceptable. It's
more than having the right stuff it's about having the right pockets
because the surest truism of our time is No Touching. There can be no mingling, no mixing, and no contact for today's
objects. It is imperative to keep this stuff away from that stuff and
furthermore to keep it all hidden. No mere bag will suffice in this
regard. Bags are where things combine in an unseemly weltering mess.
Even worse, bags are a burden. Were all this stuff that we tote around
under the auspices of organization and connectivity and ease to be carried
about in some gauche backpack it would belie the items' luxury status.
The pocket is the means by which we preserve a false guise of carefree
simplicity as we stagger about under the weight of all our luxury
goods. The trend which began with little more than big pouchy practical
pockets hanging onto the sides of those mystifyingly huge pants has become
an epidemic of dissembling utility. The guileless cargo pants were
quickly followed by cargo skirts -- long hobbling ankle-length
contraptions which eventually shrank into sexy miniskirts, subsequently
forcing the pockets to evolve into less bulky and more flattened creatures
in order to keep pace with changing hemlines. Unstoppable, the pockets
crept onward and upward, staking out new niches for survival on chests and
breasts and spawning tiny useless bastard kin on far flung arms swathed in
jersey shirt-sleeves. Micro pockets barely large enough to tote around a
match let alone an entire matchbook now adorn otherwise respectable
t-shirts and can oft be found sitting stupidly upon the occasional cloth
hat. Ironically, as these pockets propagate they have become increasingly
flat, two-dimensional, superficial and consequently increasingly unable to
bear the burden of property that their purpose would seemingly dictate.
The colonization of our bodies continues as these theoretical pocket
constructs claim barren territory hitherto unencumbered by actual
garments. Strap-on bicep pockets and velcro ankle attachments and
waste-wrapping, hip-hugging flat-pocket pockets can render any portion of
the body instantly practical and pocket-ready. A pocket as a potential is a pocket without object. In some sense
pockets are merely becoming more archetypal in their burgeoning emptiness.
The Platonic Pocket is surely filled with Nothing. Today's newest
self-styled pockets have been rendered all but incapable of appropriating
anything other than the transitional surface and as such they represent
true beacons of freedom from materialism. The inflationary replication of pockets has left us with little more
than folds of fabric too small and too flat to bear anything other than
the pocket name. In the final analysis it seems that our growing need to
cover ourselves with so many vacant pockets speaks of a deep seated
ambivalence toward the technological hallmarks of progress. These useless
pockets too awkward to contain anything but nothing are in effect a silent
rage against the machine. Perhaps we fancy the dysfunctional pockets as
emblems of protest against the false and cumbersome trappings of our
modernity. Or perhaps not. Maybe it's just an empty trend.
in the junk drawer
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